The Ladies Pocket Magazine 1829

Nic bought me the most adorable little Ladies Magazine from the second half of 1829. Considering it is almost 200 years old and was designed for traveling in a pocket or reticule it is in amazing condition. It has 2 fashion illustrations per month, conundrums, poems and stories. It is also half the size of a full magazine. 

circa. 1864 Crinoline

About 5 years ago I was gifted a strange crinoline that had no sides and tapes inside.  The owner was also gifted it and was unable to work it out.  After playing with inside tapes I found that it created an awsome shape that could be adjusted for circular or eliptical use by tightening on the tapes.  After using this crinoline for 5 years I needed to replace and upgrade it.  The original was made using hard plastic instead of wires.  A few years ago I had also spoken to the person who had made it and had explained the design and it's reference for construction.

The design came from Norah Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines. This is an amazing reference book.  The book has a diagram and drafting instructions for this crinoline. 

This is the diagram,  I have not included the drafting pattern. 

Side View

Rear View

View looking upwards inside the crinoline. 

The inside tapes that adjust the front and back curves.

Front view with petticoat.

Side view with petticoat.

I absolutely love this crinoline.  It has a beautiful drape with the slight eliptical rear that can be adjusted to create more of a bustle if required.  As it has gaps in the side it collapses easily and is very comfortable for traveling. It is also very stable when walking.  We took it to a hilly botanical gardens to test run it. 

I've never had so much room wearing a crinoline in the car. I was able to get in and out without assistance and touch my feet.  It was also amazing walking up hill as the tapes caught on my legs and automatically lifted my skirt just that little bit that I could safely walk up an incline without man handling/lifting my skirts by hand to avoid tripping. Amazing to not have to touch my skirts or kick my toes out to walk up stairs, feels way more graceful and stable. 

This crinoline was time consuming to construct all of the channels.  I also discovered that the earlier one I had was a smaller circumference (probably as the original seamstress is short) and that with the plastic it had only half of the boning channels. It is currently too large for most of my dresses as you can see by my blue dress pulling on the bottom wires in the photos.  This is not really an issue as I'm in need of new garments anyways. 

This is definately my new favorite crinoline. 

A Pincic Just Because

Today Nic decided to suprise us with a family picnic. It was great timing as I'm trying to perfect a new crinoline and test an altered garter pattern for Amelia. I'll post about both of those seperately.

One doesn't always need others to create an event to enjoy a historical moment in time, one just needs a soul mate and lovely weather to create their own moment. 

We visited the Mount Lofty Botanical Gardens.

Childs Regency Bonnet pt2

This is not the best bonnet example for a tutorial and yet to my mind that also makes it an excellent bonnet for a tutorial. I have made many beautiful bonnets and it's amazing what I learn from trying new designs and techniques.

Please note the following- There is no single correct way to make a bonnet. Of the originals I have been privileged to examine or view, there were multiple ways in which they were constructed and covered.

I am making some compromises on this bonnet. I would normally use cane to shape a Regency bonnet and I wouldn't normally use anything on a quilted bonnet. As this is for my 10 month old daughter I am using a soft/flexible millinery wire so that it is more durable. I am using a thin and softer buckram to give form to the quilting. I also usually fully construct the bonnet form and then cover and trim it. As I am quilting this bonnet I will cover it and then construct it. I also rarely fully line a bonnet in silk as it is a waste of fabric that is not seen. Very few of the originals I have examined have been lined.

I am constructing this bonnet and writing this guide while traveling to and from an event. So please excuse my shoddily taken photos.

To start with I cut out the silk with seam allowance.

I also cut buckram and quilters cotton batting without seam allowance.

I then basted the batting to the buckram and whip stitched millinery wire to the outside edge of the brim piece.

Normally I would cover the bonnet in silk after constructing the bonnet form. For this bonnet however, I am experimenting with covering the bonnet first with the silk.

I pinned then hand stitched the silk over the brim.

I was constructing this bonnet in the car and I had forgotten both my ruler and calliper. In the end I used a birthday card to draw my quilting lines.

I did have to unpick a few times due to very crooked stitching. Probably from a combination of dodgy lines and moving vehicle. I do NOT recommend this technique at all.

The crown was then only quilted on one side.

Next I constructed the bonnet. I started by joining the back of the brim.

To match the quilting running stitch I used a visible running stitch to attach the crown inside of the brim.

The completed form.

Next I had to decorate the completed form.

I tacked a thin cotton ribbon inside the brim that ties under the child's chin to hold the bonnet on and stabilize it. The outer ribbon is primary decoration

 

 

  Around the neck section I fan/pleated a decorative ribbon

 

  Using a matching blue silk thread I chain stitched around the outside of the quilting to tidy it up and complete the design.