Childs Regency Bonnet pt2

This is not the best bonnet example for a tutorial and yet to my mind that also makes it an excellent bonnet for a tutorial. I have made many beautiful bonnets and it's amazing what I learn from trying new designs and techniques.

Please note the following- There is no single correct way to make a bonnet. Of the originals I have been privileged to examine or view, there were multiple ways in which they were constructed and covered.

I am making some compromises on this bonnet. I would normally use cane to shape a Regency bonnet and I wouldn't normally use anything on a quilted bonnet. As this is for my 10 month old daughter I am using a soft/flexible millinery wire so that it is more durable. I am using a thin and softer buckram to give form to the quilting. I also usually fully construct the bonnet form and then cover and trim it. As I am quilting this bonnet I will cover it and then construct it. I also rarely fully line a bonnet in silk as it is a waste of fabric that is not seen. Very few of the originals I have examined have been lined.

I am constructing this bonnet and writing this guide while traveling to and from an event. So please excuse my shoddily taken photos.

To start with I cut out the silk with seam allowance.

I also cut buckram and quilters cotton batting without seam allowance.

I then basted the batting to the buckram and whip stitched millinery wire to the outside edge of the brim piece.

Normally I would cover the bonnet in silk after constructing the bonnet form. For this bonnet however, I am experimenting with covering the bonnet first with the silk.

I pinned then hand stitched the silk over the brim.

I was constructing this bonnet in the car and I had forgotten both my ruler and calliper. In the end I used a birthday card to draw my quilting lines.

I did have to unpick a few times due to very crooked stitching. Probably from a combination of dodgy lines and moving vehicle. I do NOT recommend this technique at all.

The crown was then only quilted on one side.

Next I constructed the bonnet. I started by joining the back of the brim.

To match the quilting running stitch I used a visible running stitch to attach the crown inside of the brim.

The completed form.

Next I had to decorate the completed form.

I tacked a thin cotton ribbon inside the brim that ties under the child's chin to hold the bonnet on and stabilize it. The outer ribbon is primary decoration

 

 

  Around the neck section I fan/pleated a decorative ribbon

 

  Using a matching blue silk thread I chain stitched around the outside of the quilting to tidy it up and complete the design.

Bonnet Patterning (Regency 2 Piece)

Making a bonnet pattern can seem daunting, but it's actually fairly simple. There are many ways it can be done. For this guide I used sticky tape, scissors and A3 cartridge paper.

My daughter needed a Regency bonnet. I found this simple design on google. I will link to the original source when I have a little more time.

I started by making a tube the same measurement as my daughter's head. Then twisted it to make it slightly conical and sticky tapes it into place.

Next I cut into the paper to create an opening the size of the back of my daughter's neck. Paper can also be added to make it rounder and remove the "V" from twisting the paper. To make the shape stable enough to start forming the brim I made the crown pattern. There are two types of crowns.

1. Flat with a sharp edge

2. Circular and rounded.

This bonnet has the second type. They are both formed similarly. Trace around the inside of the back of the cone shape onto another piece of paper. For the flat you cut out the shape traced and sticky tape it on as is. 

For this one though I added an inch evenly around and them slightly pleated the paper.

This can then be attached to the cone on the inside or outside. I chose the inside as I still needed to shape the back of the bonnet.

Depending on the type of bonnet the depth at the crown can be deeper or shallower.

As my daughter is only 10 months old she will not sit still, so I used a foam head to shape for the most part. Then double checked alterations on her head. This was my beginning basic form.

For this bonnet I needed to reshape it around the crown, so I cut the paper in thin slivers until I was happy with the shape.

I also slowly shaped the brim/front until the paper matched the image. I only work on one side. This means if I make a mistake I can start again on the other side with starting from scratch.

As I managed to get my pattern correct on the first side I removed the crown and flattened it. I could then cut the other side to match. If you had a problem with one side you can cut the pattern in half and then cut your fabric on a fold.

The completed pattern

I will add further construction notes in future posts as I complete this bonnet.

Regency/Napoleonic Short Gown

A long time ago I started researching a more period correct lower/working class Napoleonic impression. After some help and advice I made my skirt, petticoat and 2 shifts at the start of the year. The skirt and petticoat are earlier and dated to use with my 1790s impression, but I plan to use interchangeably. There are also some amazing research articles on trade and fabric quality/durability at the end of the 18th Century. Later on, I plan to make an earlier short gown for the 1790s impression.

After a lot of research I was amazed at how many types and styles there were. Online I found extant short gowns from the UK, Sweden, Holland, France and America. In Paintings, I even found them in Australia. It was also interesting to see how they changed to imitate the fashionable dress shape in the neck and waist lines.

Given the amount of inspiration, I finally decided on a short gown design. I used some from the Meg Andrews Auction Website and some from the Nederland Openluchtmuseum, to name a few.

Meg Andrews 1800

Meg Andrews 1820s

Nederland Openluchtmuseum

I must confess that this blog entry is long over due. I began sewing it in July and finished it in September this year. Unfortunately, I have been too busy to photograph it or blog about it. As I do not have a pattern I drafted it from scratch using my regency toile. I went through a number of trials till I managed to get it to work. It is fully hand sewn and I am very proud of it.

Thankfully, Mandi came over to visit and offer me some artistic support today. While visiting she took these amazing photos for me. I normally hate photos of myself as I am not photogenic, but these are wonderful so I have posted more than I normally do.

 It is very comfortable when working in the garden. Unfortunately, we have recently had some very strong winds that have caused a lot of damage to my vegetable patch, including my tomato climbers and my baby mulberry tree.

 Isn't Dotti cute, she loves a cuddle and walk.

The inside has drawstrings in the center to adjust the gathers. It closes on the top with a pin. The middle is held closed using a string on the outside which ties in a bow at the center front.

A Very Late to Post - 

The Challenge 16# Separates

Fabric: 100% Roller Printed Cotton

Notions: Cotton Tape, 1 Brass Pin, Cotton Thread
Pattern: None
Year:  1800-1820
How historically accurate is it? I think it should be fairly acurate. It is completely hand sewn using period correct stitching and construction techniques.
Hours to complete: About a month by stitching on the bus and at events including the Art Gallery (a very inspiring place to handsew)
First worn: Today
Total cost: The Cotton Fabric was $15 and the notions were from my stash, but probably totaled about $3.

Regency Christmas Picnic

Well today we had our Victoriana Society annual Regency Christmas Picnic. I also finally got some photos of my completed long sleeve dress and linen gloves. We simplified our plans this year as we had way tooo much food the year before. We also found some different Regency picnic food recipes to try including scotch eggs and quail eggs. Very yummy, I now have the intention of trying to convince Nic to let me get some quails for my new avery when I build it in January.

Nic is away, at work in the Perth office, atm. It is amazing how much more difficult it is to attend events without a man. Thankfully, I had some friends to help me prepare and to take the following lovely photos.

 Mandy, Derek, Dave and Wendy

 Group Shot

and finally a photo of the completed dress. Not bad after 2 years of hand sewing on interstate trips. I hope my next dress does not take so long. I do get the feeling wearing it that I should have a few children hanging from my skirts. Maybe one day.

 and my linen gloves, also hand sewn while on interstate drives. Its amazing how much hand sewing can be completed in a car. Thankfully, Nic does the driving to assist with this.

New Mid Victorian Waistcoat, Regency Work Apron and 1830s Bonnet Caps

Unfortunately, my holidays from university are coming to an end. I am finding that I have no where near enough time to complete all the tasks that I had set for myself. Not that I can complain, as a few days were lost in a wonderful surprise trip to Melbourne to see the Napoleon Exhibit. This week I have finally completed my Regency Linen work apron. It is completely hand sewn. I am finding that I am undertaking more and more handsewing as I feel more comfortable and confident. I have been needing this for a few years now and is perfect for when on campain and required to work around the fire. I have also found it to be useful around the house and garden,  as it is really very comfortable.

After we got home from Melbourne, Nic decided that he needed a new waistcoat. I found him rummaging through my fabrics and about to cut into some fabric purchased for pants. Thankfully I got to him in time and redirected him to the waistcoat fabrics. Yes, I know Im strange, but I always purchase in quantaties for the projects in mind and I hate wasting good fabric when it is so hard to come by here. I was also very happy as Nic had not undertaken any sewing since our marriage, when he received some constructive, but not very nicely worded feedback on his last sewing attempts. This time he worked on it with my assistance and leaving the finishing touches and hand stitching to me to complete. It took two days and looks stunning. I think he should be very proud of his achievement.

Finally, I have also completed two 1830s linen caps to wear under bonnets. It is really nice to sit by the fire in the evenings and hand sew by candle light. Small projects like this one are perfect for these times. They are a very strange shape, compared to the periods that I am accustomed to. I have been told that it is very flattering, but I think the jury is still out on that one. The first I made for myself and the other for Jessie.