For a few years the Australian Brunswick Leib Battalion Unit have been researching, discussing and trying to improve our uniforms and impressions. At the same time we were hoping to create a single pattern that could be commercially reproduced. In Australia, it is getting very expensive to have clothing made and a jacket like this involves a lot of hand sewing and has resulted in a lot of visual inconsistencies from different seamstresses. The cost is also very off-putting to new members.
Two years ago we started this project. Unfortunately, there are no original Leib Battalion Private's jackets known to exist. Most reproduction jackets are based on the artists impression of a photo of a 3rd Line Battalion Jacket in the 'Brunswick Troops 1809-15' Osprey book by Otto Von Pivka. This line drawing influenced the images in the book, and then many of the reproduction uniforms. There are now also front and back photos of this jacket provided by the German museum that bring some aspects of the line drawings accuracy into doubt. We also researched period tailoring books, similar uniforms of the time and had discussions with tailors and researchers inside and outside of Australia. The discussions lasted months and in the end we had a consensus on the following construction issues.
Photo and Line Drawing from the Osprey Book.
Front photo of the same jacket.
Rear view of the same jacket.
Officers Jacket
The first clear error in the line drawing is in the sleeves. The artist portrayed them as two piece sleeves. In itself this is uncommon in a cheap private's uniform of this time period, as it requires more fabric and more time in construction. Also the back image of the original jacket clearly shows a single seam from the underarm, identifying it as a single piece sleeve. The extant officers jacket is also only a single piece sleeve, although it does have a lot more fabric in its construction.
The next point of discussion was the back gusset. The artist has drawn it as an inserted separate piece. From a period tailoring point of view this makes no sense as it is bulky, unnecessary, fiddly and time/cost consuming to construction. Other extant examples of similar backed hussar jackets have this piece as included in the back panels as a part of the shaped construction. The original jacket seems to support this theory, but it is not 100% clear either way.
Finally, the most controversial change was to the front. At the waist, the line drawing places a crossing over point to the front of the jacket. This is something we were unable to identify in any other period tailoring. It is a waste of fabric for no purpose in a cheap private's uniform. If you look closely at the photo in the Osprey, it looks more like a crease creating shading on the fabric than an actual point. This is supported by the new photos where the buttoned side is clearly straight and the other side shows the fabric pulling with a clear shadow.
Reworked/Completed Pattern
Sample Card for Production
Once we had these decisions made I drafted up a toile and fitted it to my father. Photos were shared and discussed until everyone involved in the discussion group at that time were happy with the new pattern.
This jacket, pattern and sample card will now make their way to an Australian Sutler who will hopefully make a decent copy that will be consistent and affordable to members needing new jackets and new members requiring uniforms. It has been a lot of work, but I do hope it helps the unit and it's members out.
Inside of Collar
Lining of Collar
Front Braid and Tassles
Front Braid and Glass Buttons
Nic Wearing the Jacket. (Its not his size, but he volunteered to pose for the photos)
A long time ago I started researching a more period correct lower/working class Napoleonic impression. After some help and advice I made my skirt, petticoat and 2 shifts at the start of the year. The skirt and petticoat are earlier and dated to use with my 1790s impression, but I plan to use interchangeably. There are also some amazing research articles on trade and fabric quality/durability at the end of the 18th Century. Later on, I plan to make an earlier short gown for the 1790s impression.
After a lot of research I was amazed at how many types and styles there were. Online I found extant short gowns from the UK, Sweden, Holland, France and America. In Paintings, I even found them in Australia. It was also interesting to see how they changed to imitate the fashionable dress shape in the neck and waist lines.
Given the amount of inspiration, I finally decided on a short gown design. I used some from the Meg Andrews Auction Website and some from the Nederland Openluchtmuseum, to name a few.
I must confess that this blog entry is long over due. I began sewing it in July and finished it in September this year. Unfortunately, I have been too busy to photograph it or blog about it. As I do not have a pattern I drafted it from scratch using my regency toile. I went through a number of trials till I managed to get it to work. It is fully hand sewn and I am very proud of it.
Thankfully, Mandi came over to visit and offer me some artistic support today. While visiting she took these amazing photos for me. I normally hate photos of myself as I am not photogenic, but these are wonderful so I have posted more than I normally do.
It is very comfortable when working in the garden. Unfortunately, we have recently had some very strong winds that have caused a lot of damage to my vegetable patch, including my tomato climbers and my baby mulberry tree.
Isn't Dotti cute, she loves a cuddle and walk.
The inside has drawstrings in the center to adjust the gathers. It closes on the top with a pin. The middle is held closed using a string on the outside which ties in a bow at the center front.
A Very Late to Post -
The Challenge 16# Separates
Fabric: 100% Roller Printed Cotton
Notions: Cotton Tape, 1 Brass Pin, Cotton Thread Pattern: None Year:1800-1820 How historically accurate is it? I think it should be fairly acurate. It is completely hand sewn using period correct stitching and construction techniques. Hours to complete: About a month by stitching on the bus and at events including the Art Gallery (a very inspiring place to handsew) First worn: Today Total cost: The Cotton Fabric was $15 and the notions were from my stash, but probably totaled about $3.
Last weekend was an amazing weekend as South Australia hosted its first military living history festival. In attendance were vikings, medieval, Napoleonic forces (including the 15th Light Dragoons, Dutch infantry, 95th Rifles, Prussian infantry, Brunswicker's, French Infantry, British and French Artillery and others), 1860s Noarlunga Volunteer Rifles, 1880s Fort Glanville Artillery, World War I and World War II forces. There were encampments scattered around the township and a block of land on the main street that hosted battles throughout the weekend.
For us it was wonderful to finally catch up with our fellow members of La Belle Alliance. Unfortunately, due to work and study commitments we have been unable to attend events for 3 years. This is not helped by the fact that LBA is located in Queensland and we live in South Australia. They are a wonderful group and we really enjoyed catching up with them. The weekend had a few glitches, but these are to be expected for an inaugural event. Thankfully, the groups managed to survive the 37+ degree Celsius heat, lack of toilet and shower facilities and missing water supplies. The battles, however, were great fun and visually appealing.
We are definitely looking forward to next year and hope that it will get bigger and better.
We were fortunate that one of the groups brought a fully working Napoleonic kitchen.
ps. that is me on dishes duty
This was the main street of our encampment. Our tent was on the next street to the left.
Marching on to the field.
The Brunswicker's advancing on the French.
Nic is the one kneeling to load on the left.
The French from LBA and the dragoons on display for a local MP.
The Brunswicker's from LBA, the Dutch and Prussian infantry also on display.
Nic and myself after the final battle on Sunday.
Unfortunately, we are dressed from different decades.... sadly no one else seemed to pick up on this fact. Nic is dressed in the later 1810-15 uniform, while I was in 1790-1800s. I wish I had a photo of the back as my jump/corset is actually high at the back providing an interesting transitional look. I really love my new outfit. It was not overly uncomfortable in the heat and was highly functional when working and running round the battle field to provide water to the fallen troops.
Michael was also nice enough to find this Youtube online of the battle. Nic is the Brunswicker who got his horse hair plume stuck on his musket. I hope you enjoy as much as we did
Well today we had our Victoriana Society annual Regency Christmas Picnic. I also finally got some photos of my completed long sleeve dress and linen gloves. We simplified our plans this year as we had way tooo much food the year before. We also found some different Regency picnic food recipes to try including scotch eggs and quail eggs. Very yummy, I now have the intention of trying to convince Nic to let me get some quails for my new avery when I build it in January.
Nic is away, at work in the Perth office, atm. It is amazing how much more difficult it is to attend events without a man. Thankfully, I had some friends to help me prepare and to take the following lovely photos.
Mandy, Derek, Dave and Wendy
Group Shot
and finally a photo of the completed dress. Not bad after 2 years of hand sewing on interstate trips. I hope my next dress does not take so long. I do get the feeling wearing it that I should have a few children hanging from my skirts. Maybe one day.
and my linen gloves, also hand sewn while on interstate drives. Its amazing how much hand sewing can be completed in a car. Thankfully, Nic does the driving to assist with this.
In December the Victoriana Society decided to make the Christmas function a Regency Picnic. This was the opportunity to sew my first Regency Garment.
My partner is a member of a napoleonic re-enactment group based on the Brunswickers. His uniform is very nice and gets a lot of compliments. Anyways for my first attempt at a Regency style dress I decided to try to make a followers dress for the Brunswickers using Nic's uniform as the basis.
I used the Sense and Sensibility Patterns for the crossover gown and Spencer Jacket to create this outfit. I only made some modifications to the collar of the Spencer. I was suprised at how easy this outfit was to make. Unfortunately I did not have the time to complete the spencer. Since then I have completed it.
This picnic became even more special as it was at this event that Nic proposed to me.
