Childs Regency Bonnet pt2

This is not the best bonnet example for a tutorial and yet to my mind that also makes it an excellent bonnet for a tutorial. I have made many beautiful bonnets and it's amazing what I learn from trying new designs and techniques.

Please note the following- There is no single correct way to make a bonnet. Of the originals I have been privileged to examine or view, there were multiple ways in which they were constructed and covered.

I am making some compromises on this bonnet. I would normally use cane to shape a Regency bonnet and I wouldn't normally use anything on a quilted bonnet. As this is for my 10 month old daughter I am using a soft/flexible millinery wire so that it is more durable. I am using a thin and softer buckram to give form to the quilting. I also usually fully construct the bonnet form and then cover and trim it. As I am quilting this bonnet I will cover it and then construct it. I also rarely fully line a bonnet in silk as it is a waste of fabric that is not seen. Very few of the originals I have examined have been lined.

I am constructing this bonnet and writing this guide while traveling to and from an event. So please excuse my shoddily taken photos.

To start with I cut out the silk with seam allowance.

I also cut buckram and quilters cotton batting without seam allowance.

I then basted the batting to the buckram and whip stitched millinery wire to the outside edge of the brim piece.

Normally I would cover the bonnet in silk after constructing the bonnet form. For this bonnet however, I am experimenting with covering the bonnet first with the silk.

I pinned then hand stitched the silk over the brim.

I was constructing this bonnet in the car and I had forgotten both my ruler and calliper. In the end I used a birthday card to draw my quilting lines.

I did have to unpick a few times due to very crooked stitching. Probably from a combination of dodgy lines and moving vehicle. I do NOT recommend this technique at all.

The crown was then only quilted on one side.

Next I constructed the bonnet. I started by joining the back of the brim.

To match the quilting running stitch I used a visible running stitch to attach the crown inside of the brim.

The completed form.

Next I had to decorate the completed form.

I tacked a thin cotton ribbon inside the brim that ties under the child's chin to hold the bonnet on and stabilize it. The outer ribbon is primary decoration

 

 

  Around the neck section I fan/pleated a decorative ribbon

 

  Using a matching blue silk thread I chain stitched around the outside of the quilting to tidy it up and complete the design.

Recipe - Potted Cheese (Godey's 1866)

For a few years now I've been enjoying cooking period recipes.  I have decided to start blogging some of my experiences.

I found the cutest potting-jars at a local antique store and was inspired to start potting. There are many different potted recipes,  which in modern terms are the equivalent of spreads or dips. In my 1866 Godey's Lady"s book there was a simple potted cheese recipe. 

This is a very simple recipe and does not require any preparation.

Ingredients:

1  pound of cheese

2 ounces of melted butter

1 cup of sherry (I assume a sherry cup full)

Cayenne,  mace (nutmeg) and salt

Method:

One pound of cheese must be well beaten in a mortar, to it must be added two ounces of liquid butter,  one cup of sherry,  and a very small quantity of cayenne pepper, mace (nutmeg) and salt.  All should be well beaten together and put in a potting-jar, with a lip of butter at the top.

The beating of the cheese was quite hard work and it broke one of my pestles.

The finished potted cheese. As described it is a very nice looking. It tastes very much like the ingredients of a strong cheese with a sherry aftertaste.  It is very nice in small quantities on toast or fresh bread. You can also seal them with a beeswax cloth and string tied under the lip of the jar. 

1860s Cloth Doll

Amelia needed a decent doll for re-enactment use. I am always reluctant to allow any toddler (especially mine) to play with original historical antique items. After some discussion we decided that it would be best to provide her with a cloth doll. Thankfully, we were able to purchase and download Great Auntie Maude’s Cloth Lady Doll (https://www.thesewingacademy.com/shop/). This is a fantastic pattern and was fairly simple to hand sew. The complete doll and outfit only took a few weeks to construct during my leisure time. It was also nice that we completed the doll together as a family.

 Nic painted Minnie May's face, while I started on the arms. Once she was dry I was able to complete hand sewing her body. She was made with cotton and stuffed with natural cleaned wool from a Steiner children's shop.

 I loved that the pattern included a full wardrobe of garments, including all her underwear. It is nice not having to purchase multiple items. The instructions were very clear and easy to follow. 

 The completed drawers. I was worried at first that they are closed with hooks, but once on the doll they have never come undone.

 For her dress Amelia chose some scraps from her tan dress. As Minnie May is meant to be a doll version of Miss Amelia May we decided to make her dress at a child's length. Later Nic did paint the back of her head as well.

 

 Amelia was super excited and enjoyed every new item as I finished sewing.

 I love the very small hooks and thread eyes. Very easy to use and surprisingly stable.

 

  

 Miss Amelia May and Minnie May at an event.

She also has a coat now. We still need to make her a bonnet and a copy of Amelia's yellow dress. For her stockings we used finger bandages that we cut in half and stitched closed. We were able to purchase leather boots from the Doll Hospital.

 

Amelia's Yellow/Wiggle/Alice 1860s Dress

Having completed my daughter's tan dress using the Elizabeth Stewart Clark's Sewing Academy Girl's dress pattern (https://www.thesewingacademy.com/shop/) I felt confident in undertaking a bigger project.

My husband has always been a big fan of Alice in Wonderland. My daughter loves Emma Wiggle (http://www.thewiggles.com.au/). I love original garment inspiration. So after a few months of discussion and planning we found a way to mix all three into an amazing dress.

 Stock Art Image of Alice from Google

Original Dress from the MET Online Collection

(https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/80030738?img=2)



 

I started with yellow cotton as the original inspiration is described. I was surprised as I expected it to have been made of wool. The braiding was hand sewn using a black cotton soutache braid.

 I started with the sleeve design as it was a simple loop. The ends of the braid were pushed into the seams and hidden inside the dress as can be seen with the sewing of the waist braid. Once the waist was decorated I then finished the construction of the waist by closing and hand stitching the inside waist closed. This means that non of the black thread can be seen inside the dress.

 It took me a few days to finish the waist as I was only working on this a few hours at night.

The completed top half of the dress.

 Once the rest of the garment was complete I began work on the skirt. This design was a lot more complicated. I created a design on tracing paper then transferred it to the skirt with invisible/washable ink.

 To help keep the braid smooth I used an embroidery frame while hand sewing. I began and finished the braid at the centre back seam, with the braid ends hidden inside the garment.

I chose to place the braid higher up as I wanted a deep hem on this dress as I am 6ft tall and expect my daughter to grow fast (which she is). I wanted this dress to have a long life.

**Edit - When my daughter turned 3 years of age she requested her first crinoline and that required me to drop the hem significantly, so I was very happy with this decision. She loves this dress and it has had an amazing amount of use.

 
Dropping the hem significantly.

 

 Playing indoor croquette while on holiday.

Enjoying the day with her apron on, a rare occasion.

  Homestead station vacation

(yes I know my collar/chemisette is missing.... All this toddler sewing has left my wardrobe looking sad and in need of repairs)

 

 

 



Tan Toddler's 1860s Dress

Nic was able to get some of Elizabeth Stewart Clark's Sewing Academy Patterns shipped to Australia through a pen pal of his in America. I am super grateful to Betty for helping us out with the patterns.  I highly recommend these patterns for children. They are easy to follow, customisable, multiple sizes and period correct for the 1860s

I made all the undergarments according to the pattern. Amelia was too small for the smallest size, but that is just a bonus for me. I moved the buttons inwards to allow overlap on her stays and stitched the straps further down to make them shorter.

I do not have many photos of her undergarments, but I do have this shocker at the end of a full day event on a very hot day over 35C after her dress had to be removed due to something that she accidentally poured on herself.

** Edit - now at 3 years of age I have put the straps and buttons back to the pattern location and she has had 2 years of wear out of the same undergarments. Hopefully she will still fit them in another year. I have also used the patterns to make her new drawers and chemises. I still love how easy this pattern is to sew.

Moving the buttons, shows where the buttons were when she was a toddler. The move gave her 2 inches of growth room.

 

 

The dress pattern has many options to customise it. I used the draw string neck toddler dress for 2 year olds. I was given some amazing vintage fabric that I thought looked perfect and added multiple 1 inch growth tucks. The dress also has a piece of vintage lace under the bottom pin tuck.

 

 

 at the Goldfields in the Barossa

 

 

 

 Ayers House Museum

 Afternoon tea at Kingston House

Anlaby Homestead 

 

In this photo you can see that we have now had to let out all the pin tucks. She is also wearing a super cute child's bonnet I made before I was pregnant.

 3 years old and now wearing her first crinoline attached to her stays under the same dress. The dress no longer has any pin tucks.

 

 

 

Miss Amelia May with Minnie May her matching rag doll.